Noodles of New York
Focused on Sichuan, Ramen, Thai amongst others New York’s Asian food scene has to offer
May 2023
The best part about New York (and the east coast in general) is seasons – it’s why we left California. Arguably my most unpopular opinion is that I love the cold weather. The icy winds that beckon us to hunch over steaming bowls of noodles, brimming with spice and character, just like the city.
Here’s some of the best noodles to savor when the winter chill sets in.
Sichuan & Dan-Dan Noodles
Cafe China
Few things are on a fortnight rotation in the winter, and Cafe China is at the top of the list – in the busy winter culinary landscape, there exists a gem that shines brighter than the rest: Cafe China. And though the takeout is delicious, something magical has been happening in the four walls of their new location since it opened. The Dan Dan noodles are at their freshest, and sometimes just a couple dumplings with the noodles is enough to warm a freezing soul. For those seeking a fiery kick, the dumplings in chili oil, three pepper chicken leave a lingering heat on your tongue, one that can be balanced out by the sautéed string beans, spicy cucumbers, and eggplant in garlic sauce. Honestly, it’s hard to make a wrong choice.
Han Dynasty
I may be biased because I have frequented this “chain” since my Philly days but Han Dynasty is comfort Sichuan food and their noodles are consistently good across the Dan Dan & Lo Mein. The restaurant ambience caters to a casual date-night experience or just a late-afternoon meal just the same. There’s far too many good things on the menu, these are the must-haves especially if it’s your first time: cucumbers (though they sound basic they’re phenomenal), wontons in chili oil, and mushroom hot pot. If you’re feeling extra hungry or wanting to diversify all the dumplings are great, the dry pot chicken if you’re feeling like challenging your spice levels. Similar to Cafe China, hard to go wrong here.
Mala Project
Another Dan Dan for the books, alongside their signature dry pot makes a winter day worth it. The dry pot sends your taste buds tingling and dancing for sure, but so worth it. Don’t sleep on the toppings that may seem like they’re run-of-the-mill but are anything but – enoki, oyster, and wood ear mushrooms are all phenomenal, the fish cakes, tofu skin, bamboo shoots, bok choy, and babycorn are the silent stars of any dry pot I order here.
Very Fresh Noodles
The name says it all, well almost all. It would definitely be more aptly named Very Fresh & Very Spicy Noodles. I’m glad I tried it once, and would definitely recommend to those who like to push the bounds of their spice levels and enjoy the tongue numbing sensation. If you think there’s no such thing as “too Mala” you haven’t tried the unmixed Tingly & Spicy Cumin Lamb Noodles – it’s guaranteed to make you think your tongue has fallen off. But once you do mix it well its a delicious bowl of not really spicy but just tingly flavorful noodles with well seasoned meat. The chicken wings don’t get talked about enough which in my opinion are the highlight. Slightly sweet and spicy, perfectly crispy delivering a satisfying crunch sound when you bite into it, and meat even non-meat lovers can eat to the bone – the fried chicken is one of the few ones I’d recommend in the city. I still enjoy watching them hand draw the noodles, and I’m looking forward to trying the innocuous looking plain old “spicy” noodles next time
Ramen
Ippudo & Totto Ramen
To avoid furthering the long standing rivalry I have these two together but I do have a slight preference for Totto. They’re a block away from each other, and honestly both are well worth the trip to the otherwise oddly quiet street. The Fried Chicken Ramen, Spicy Ramen, and Paitan at Totto are unique and perfectly executed. At Ippudo, the lines are definitely shorter and their classic Shiromaru with the tonkatsu broth is made by the book every time, with the perfect balance of dashi and the fresh thin noodles. When in the mood for a kick, the Spicy Karaka does the job.
Jin
You might not see this on many lists, but it’s a well kept upper west side secret, with new locations propping up in Morningside and Hamilton Heights. They’ve consistently been on Michelin’s Bib Gourmand for years, and rightfully so. Aside from the classics, the black garlic oil is their specialty, and it works wonders for umami and kick on a cold winter evening – it’s what makes the Kuro ramens my favorite. For those that like a bit of fusion, the green curry ramen is exactly what you’d imagine, and all their ramen bowls are generously portioned. It’s one of those meals you can’t wait for so you show up for “dinner” when they open at 5pm and tell yourself it’s been dark out for an hour.
Ivan Ramen
When someone has spent years perfecting the hand drawn ramen noodle, it shows. Ivan is a force to be reckoned with in the world of ramen, one where mastery is measured by the precision and artistry that goes into crafting the perfect hand-drawn noodle.
Ivan's expertise shines through in every bowl, as he allows the noodles to take center stage, complemented by broths and flavors that serve to enhance rather than overpower. Here, the delicate balance of flavors allows the hand-drawn noodles to shine, showcasing Ivan's dedication to his craft. Even the spicier option, the Red Chili ramen, surprises with its ability to strike a harmonious balance, satisfying those craving a bolder kick without overwhelming the senses.
Don’t overlook the smaller dishes that pack a punch, especially the veggies like the Curry Flower & Crispy Eggplant.
Momofuku Noodle Bar
The noodles here do deserve a mention, but the rest, not so much. The fomo inducing split-flap display with disappearing menu items is placed centrally at the noodle bar. The caviar is an unnecessary addition to an otherwise average fried chicken bao bun. With salmon roe instead of actual caviar, Noodle Bar is a a microcosm of the larger Momofuku ecosystem, focused on the marketability over quality for an overpriced and underwhelming experience.
Other noodles
Oiji Mi
A lot has been said about this famed Lobster Ramyun, and all I can say is it's the one dish thats worth the entire menu. Sitting under a carefully poached lobster are springy, chewy noodles that one must be warned are cold. The lobster itself is bathed in a tantalizing gochugaru and garlic sauce, infusing each bite with a kick that perfectly complements the creamy richness of the noodles. All this is topped off with fresh microgreens to vibrantly balance it all out. It's important to note that unlike the majority of dishes on the menu, the Lobster Ramyun is served cold. However, don't be deceived by its temperature, this one’s a cold one but it warms you up on the inside just the same.
Pure Thai Cookhouse
Easily hailed one of the best Thai restaurants in the city, this tucked away, no reservations and no frills joint offers the best handmade Thai noodles and every other dish. Unlike most others that have Americanized, you’ll ask yourself if you’ve been eating the wrong Pad Thai and Pad Ki Mao everywhere else. But the stars are hiding in the Pure Thai Noodles section. The Ratchaburi Crab & Pork Dry Noodle transports you right back to the night markets, and Krabi Seafood Noodles Soup does not hold back on any seafood flavors to make you feel like you’re sitting right by the beach and can taste the ocean. The Root Vegetable Puffs, Crispy Tofu, and and Chicken Satay Buns are worthy apps, especially if you’ve waited over an hour for your table which is extremely likely.
LumLum
In an otherwise overdone Thai fusion scene, this one came as a breath of fresh air to accompany Pure Thai Cookhouse. A standout menu all around, LumLum is among the few NY Thai fixtures that brings the life of a late night Thai Market to a restaurant complete with the decor and cocktails to transport you there. Everything on the noodle menu is phenomenal, the standards like Pad Thai, Pad Ki Mao, and the less popular Nam Ya Poo.
Venturing beyond noodles, LumLum continues to impress with their delectable creations. The Khao Pad Poo, a crabmeat fried rice dish, boasts a symphony of flavors that leave a lasting impression. The famous Goong Yang, featuring photogenic Thai river prawns, a delight to look at and eat with its remarkable depth of flavor bursting with flavor. For a taste of juicy perfection, the lemongrass chicken wings, known as Gai Tod Takrai, are an absolute must-try. I can’t get enough of the Stir Fried Morning Glory hiding at the bottom of the menu.
And for those seeking a sweet finale, they stand out as one of the few establishments in NY that serves the traditional Thai coconut milk and pandan pudding, known as Khanom Tuay.
Soothr
From the moment Soothr arrived at the New York Thai scene they swiftly claimed a spot on every notable list. The star attractions are their unparalleled noodle bowls, with the Khao Soi and Tom Yum reigning supreme. Their mastery extends beyond noodles, as their smaller bites like the Duck Rolls and Moo Dang Puff leave a lasting impression that is hard to match elsewhere in the city.
Native Noodles
Tucked away uptown, Native Noodles has become a haven for noodle enthusiasts in the know. This unassuming spot has quickly captured the attention and hearts of many, thanks to its focus on flavors that transport diners to the streets of Singapore and beyond. When it comes to standout dishes, the Laksa (soupy) and Singaporean noodles take center stage. Showcasing the bold flavors and aromatic spices, these bowls of goodness are a true delight.
Her Name is Han
When winter's icy grip takes hold, there's one place I find solace in time and time again: Her Name is Han. This unassuming gem stands as a beacon of Korean soul food, offering a dining experience that effortlessly blends a chic rustic ambiance with dishes that surpass all expectations.
Every dish on the menu is a triumph in its own right. From the mouthwatering Kimchi Pancake to the addictive Rice Cakes and the irresistible Corn Croquettes, each bite is a revelation of flavor and texture.
But it's the Budae and Rice Cake Hot Pots that truly steal the spotlight. These generous shareable soup bowls redefine the concept of comfort soul food. These Hot Pots are not just meals, but almost an immersive experience that invite you to savor them over heartfelt conversations as you pick at the bowl eagerly uncovering treasures like rice cakes and sausages.
Tsurutontan
Bowls bigger than your face and a hearty meal for a wintry day. The uni udon is the creamiest and richest in the city, guaranteed to keep you full for a day and some. Their sides are great but don’t get as much attention because the bowls are just that big – I recommend the karage or buns if you have extra space. The honorable mention here is their Dan Dan Noodles makes an appearance as TanTan on the menu (if you can’t already tell I love Dan Dan noodles)
